What Are Color Correctors & How Are They Used?
Color correctors (sometimes called corrective concealers) correct imperfections by neutralizing certain colors in the skin instead of concealing them. Color correcting shades are for very dark or extreme discolorations and are used before applying concealer. Dark under-eye circles that are caused by genetics are difficult to hide with normal concealer. A color corrective shade would be used to cancel out the hue causing the darkness.
Many professional makeup artists have studied color theory and use the color wheel as a visual guide for getting rid of undesirable darkness or redness in the skin, using colors opposite each other (called complementary colors) like orange to neutralize bluish to bluish-gray tints under the eye, which are common in black and East Indian women, and brown patches in Latina and Asian women.
Yellow is used to cover purplish bruises and green to counteract redness. Corrective colors might also be used to lighten or deepen areas for facial contouring and reshaping.
Corrective Colors
Here are some corrective colors and how they are used:
Yellow is used to neutralize red and purple. It minimizes redness in the face, brown spots, balances skin tone and reddish and orange tones in the light skin.
Orange neutralizes blue. This color is used to correct a bluish tint under the eyes and purplish bruises.
Green neutralizes deeper redness to take care of reddish blemishes, scars, and rosacea.
Beige is used to minimize grays and browns.
Lilac/lavender/mauve neutralizes and/or brightens yellow and sallow tones and is also used on bruises.
Blue is used for minor imperfections, brown spots, and freckles on pale/very light skin.
These corrective colors range from light to dark, depending on the complexion: For example, shades of oranges will range from light peach for lighter skin to true or burnt orange for deeper complexions.
Here is a list of what shades might be used on the skin of color:
Light/Asian Complexions
- Beige
- Light tan
- Light to medium peach/salmon
- Mauve
- Light yellow
- Light green
Medium/Olive
- Orange
- Yellow
- Peach
- Green
Dark
- Mustard or Orange-Yellow
- Orange
- Dark Peach
- Green
- Burnt coral
- Brownish red
Some makeup companies make it easier to figure out which corrective colors you need for skin problems and by skin tone. Makeup Forever‘s Camouflage Cream Pot comes in 10 different flesh-colored shades as well as corrective shades to address various skin issues: Yellow to lighten yellow and dark spots on the mixed and dark skin. Green to conceal redness on the fair skin. Mauve to camouflage light brown and yellow spots on Asian skin. Pink to tone down gray and dark spots on the Middle Eastern skin. Apricot is to camouflage bluish circles under the eyes and tone down dark spots on dark skin.
Many companies, including MUFE, have multi-piece color corrector/concealer palettes. Considering that there are more shades to choose from, it is easier for women of color to hide dark under eye circles, puffy eyes, dark spots, blemishes, and other skin imperfections and correct hyperpigmentation and scars.
Some palettes will also contain flesh-colored shades for hiding minor puffiness, pigmentation and scars that can be covered with regular concealer, and corrective shades to conceal hyperpigmentation and more severe redness like rosacea.
Shades that are darker than your skin tone can be used for contouring and shaping facial features and adding depth to areas on the face. Lighter shades are used for highlighting and brightening.